LG Ultragear 27" OLED 240hz 1440P 27GR95QE-B

Soooooo I have recently moved, and my current living situation means that the LG CX 55" which I have been using for nearly 3 years and over 15k hours on-time no longer makes sense. Got a new "toy" coming tomorrow.

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I have a question to LG monitor owners: do sharpness change when you enable HDR and use/change color profiles generated by windows HDR app?

Sharpness is a modifiable monitor setting in the Gamer 1 and Gamer 2 HDR modes (though it is grayed out in the other modes, so I don't know what it defaults to in those). I leave it on 50 as that seems to be the setting that doesn't add additional sharpness or softness.

Windows HDR Calibration App for Win11 (assuming that's what you mean) shouldn't have any effect on sharpness.
 
Windows HDR Calibration App for Win11 (assuming that's what you mean) shouldn't have any effect on sharpness.
I did not ask if it should or shouldn't be the case but if it actually does change brightness on itself.

I had this peculiar issue on LG 27GP950 until some FW update fixed it and I also have it on 48GQ900 wondering how such issues could possibly not get caught in testing and also if other LG monitors have it.
 
I did not ask if it should or shouldn't be the case but if it actually does change brightness on itself.

I had this peculiar issue on LG 27GP950 until some FW update fixed it and I also have it on 48GQ900 wondering how such issues could possibly not get caught in testing and also if other LG monitors have it.

Brightness, as mentioned in this follow-up post, or sharpness, as mentioned in your original post?

I was talking about sharpness, and in regards to that, I have not noticed any change or loss of control from the monitor settings themselves; sharpness works as set/as it should. I don't see any mechanism where sharpness *should* be affected by an HDR monitor profile, so that's a really curious bug.

I could see how brightness would be affected more since the HDR Calibration actively deals with those upper/lower limits and how HDR is sent to the monitor, though in my limited experience (I've played more SDR games than HDR so far, though I have done a fair bit of HDR gaming), I haven't noticed any brightness issues during HDR content. On the desktop, any HDR calibration is going to result in it looking different that pre-calibration, but I only run in HDR mode when I intend to use native HDR content, so that's not something that really affects me.
 
Brightness, as mentioned in this follow-up post, or sharpness, as mentioned in your original post?
LOL, I meant sharpness. When I wrote last post my mind was apparently blanking 🙃

I was talking about sharpness, and in regards to that, I have not noticed any change or loss of control from the monitor settings themselves; sharpness works as set/as it should. I don't see any mechanism where sharpness *should* be affected by an HDR monitor profile, so that's a really curious bug.
That is good to hear. It is very irritating bug to deal with on 48GQ900 because it forces me to use pilot to go to menu all the time just to correct sharpness - otherwise its like it was set to 100 or even higher. For whatever reason it only happens on PC so I should be able to workaround it with HDFury Vrroom.

I could see how brightness would be affected more since the HDR Calibration actively deals with those upper/lower limits and how HDR is sent to the monitor, though in my limited experience (I've played more SDR games than HDR so far, though I have done a fair bit of HDR gaming), I haven't noticed any brightness issues during HDR content. On the desktop, any HDR calibration is going to result in it looking different that pre-calibration, but I only run in HDR mode when I intend to use native HDR content, so that's not something that really affects me.
Not my question but actually I did some tests to confirm if issue I reported for my LG monitors on PS5 affects PC and... IT DOES!
Desktop in HDR on PC looks nothing like it does on PS5 but it only really tells anything about SDR sRGB emulation, not games or HDR content.

HDR videos of Ghost of Tsushima looks as bad (read: too dark) played back as playing game on PS5 and I did notice an issue in a cave in Horizon being black where it made no sense.

Wall behind samurai should be clearly visible and slightly brighter than black bar.
Without correction on LG 48GQ900 and LG 27GP950 it is completely black.

Thankfully on PC it is very easy to fix these kind of issues. On my sad (or happy? certainly better than having no GPU at all! 🤪) Radeon all I needed to do is hit Alt+R, enable custom color and increase brightness until image looks good so no need to get expensive devices like HDFury Vrroom and limiting oneself to HDMI.
For Radeon on LG 27GP950 brightness setting of 8-11 (range because it seems to be the same actual brightness value - this setting has reduced precision) seems to be correct with 15 being the last brightness level before black becomes brighter.
For 48GQ900 I would say... 24-27 🤯 Ghost of Tsushima video looks perfect with this setting with only things which are actually black being black and dark details clearly visible. Its slightly better than playing on PS5 with HDFury Vrroom workaround I use for PS5.

The way I calibrate is to launch HDR calibration app and set brightness to 0.005 and adjust brightness lowest it can go until it can be barely seen while keeping sure pure black is still pure black. Then leave it at 0.005 and set rest of the steps to more or less what display is capable of displaying*. I do not think first step is used by games just like it isn't on PS5 but if it is or is not should not make much difference with it being set on 0.005. In this case however we just made sure settings are correct and if game or HDR movie displays something at 0.005 it won't be displayed as pure black.

By default it seems anything below 0.1 nits is not displayed on either 27GP950 or 48GQ900 hence very dark details are severely crushed. Difference between 0.1 and 0.005 is of course quite big...

So the real question - is the wall behind samurai sama completely black in HDR?
And without changing brightness in GPU panel what is the value in first calibration step which is visible on 27GR95QE?
While 27GR95QE might not have as much level of this dark crush as 48GQ900 it almost definitely is not factory calibrated to display details at 0.005** so I would recommend calibrating it with brightness in GPU panel.

*) Changing brightness on GPU will increase all levels by the same digital amount and this will affect ideal value which should be set in other two calibration steps. Since the delta is very small and whole process not very precise to begin with smallest step being 10 nits and delta being more like 1 nit this difference can be ignored and the same values should be used.

**) I do not think any display is calibrated like that. It won't be until people and reviewers start paying attention to actual quality of the image.
 
Ok, just got mine a little over an hour ago and have been playing with it since then, so these are my initial impressions.



Build Quality: Thin, metal, everything feels expensive. Build quality is exceptional. Good job LG.

Brightness: It's low compared to other displays, but does it bother me? Not really. It's plenty bright, especially in HDR. The matte coating on the screen does it no favors, but the coating itself does not bother me. Compared to the old 1440p 144hz Dell TN I've been using for the past several days, it's night-and-day better.

Performance: The jury is still out on this. Maybe I'm getting old, but I honestly don't see that much of a difference between my old CX 55 (120hz), and this (240hz). I've checked to ensure the screen is set to 1440p and 240hz, and it is. 240hz is most definitely smoother, but we are deep into diminishing returns at this point. I think my old eyes are beginning to falter as I was expecting more. I'm also seeing very aggressive ABL. I hope the rumors about LG increasing brightness are true, and along with that, we get a reduction in ABL aggressiveness.

Color: Fabulous. Deep blacks. Punchy reds, greens, and blues. No complaints.

So far, I like it. I don't have room on my desk for a 42" C2/C3, so this is a no-brainer. Obviously my RTX 4090 is now utter overkill for this setup, but at least it's futureproof.

More to come.
 
LOL, I meant sharpness. When I wrote last post my mind was apparently blanking 🙃

So the real question - is the wall behind samurai sama completely black in HDR?
And without changing brightness in GPU panel what is the value in first calibration step which is visible on 27GR95QE?
While 27GR95QE might not have as much level of this dark crush as 48GQ900 it almost definitely is not factory calibrated to display details at 0.005** so I would recommend calibrating it with brightness in GPU panel.

Going by the video (YouTube running in HDR), I can see the detail on the back wall just fine - it definitely isn't completely black. This is with Gamer 1's HDR mode and no other adjustments other than having run the Windows 11 HDR Calibration tool.
 
This morning, I was ready to take it back because I didn't like the fact that it was not 4K and thought the panel was too expensive. Someone on another forum pointed out that the panel has MLA, which I did not realize and is really cool. So I set it back up and started playing with the settings to get it just right...

I'm sold. This thing is baller.

First, it is native 1440p/240hz, but it can also upscale natively to 4K120. It actually detects 4K120 as its native resolution, not 1440p/240hz, which means if you use DSR, it can go all the way up to 8K (7680x4320). Not only that, it does so without some of the headaches I got trying to do it with my CX 55. It also runs PS5 at 4K120 natively as well.

The image on games like Halo Infinite in HDR is jaw dropping. Contrast and color pop hard. Everything is deep and vibrant, and it will run all the way up close to 240 FPS on my current setup. That is beyond cool IMO. It doesn't have the bright punch that the CX has, but I'll forgive it as the colors are deeper and everything is more contrasty (is that a word?) on this panel. MLA is definitely doing its job.
 
Going by the video (YouTube running in HDR), I can see the detail on the back wall just fine - it definitely isn't completely black. This is with Gamer 1's HDR mode and no other adjustments other than having run the Windows 11 HDR Calibration tool.
What about Windows HDR Calibration level at which dark pattern is becomes visible?

The image on games like Halo Infinite in HDR is jaw dropping. Contrast and color pop hard. Everything is deep and vibrant, and it will run all the way up close to 240 FPS on my current setup. That is beyond cool IMO. It doesn't have the bright punch that the CX has, but I'll forgive it as the colors are deeper and everything is more contrasty (is that a word?) on this panel. MLA is definitely doing its job.
To me this sounds exactly like that black/dark crush issue I have on other LG monitors in HDR mode...
 
In Gamer 1


In Gamer 1, it disappears for me at .0050 (so I can start to see it at .01).
The next two patterns both completely disappear right at 580.
It would mean LG didn't screw up HDR on 27GR95QE like they did on 48GQ900 and 27GP950. Good to know.
 
When is LG going to get rid of that stupid anti-glare coating? Absolutely ruins what would otherwise be a very good display.

There seems to be enough people like us who want a glossy / semi-gloss screen, why aren't manufacturers releasing any OLED models without the anti-glare coating?

There's the vaporware from Dough, but nothing else appears to be on the horizon. I've seen the anti-glare coating removal videos, glad to know that's possible, but it shouldn't be required.

I would have considered an OLED had there been a glossy / semi-gloss 27" 1440. Instead I decided to stick with IPS for another generation. I like the semi-gloss finish on my AW2723DF.
 
Interesting video, though personally I'd never use Vivid mode, even for the extra brightness, because of it's decreased accuracy. Honestly (and I've mostly been playing SDR as the game I'm playing now doesn't support native HDR), I haven't noticed much of a difference since the firmware update, though I'm still just as pleased by the monitor's performance.

I'll be curious if the Dough glossy does show up. I think glossy could be neat as well, though the matte coating wasn't a dealbreaker for me like it is for some.

I watched Vincent's review of the new Asus display that uses the same panel, and I have to say I'm glad I didn't wait for the Asus and went with the LG. Asus has a few niceties (higher brightness is the main one, and also calibration out of the box), BUT, I kind of felt like the LG still has it better overall if you don't *need* that extra brightness. LG has HDMI 2.1 vs the Asus only having 2.0, and the Asus has black crush issues the LG fortunately doesn't as well as worse HDR EOTF tracking. Seems to have a bit more image retention issues as well, probably owing to the higher brightness. In short, the heatsink and brightness seem more impressive, but the costs for my uses would outweigh the benefits (the black crush in particular would be a dealbreaker, but maybe it'll be eventually fixed via firmware).
 
Best Buy has a few 100 reviews on their site everyone is buying there to skip the California 10% sales tax. Took me a really long time to get used to it though good 3 weeks after I settled on my calibrations it's a tons better then pervious 27" monitors I owned like the ROG Swift I picked up in 2016 I hardly used it because I couldn't get used to the screen. I thought it was the size but in reality it was the size and the led lights.
 
I think with virtually *any* OLED, if it's abused, burn in can absolutely happen. That said, I'd never consider an in-store model as indicative of a problem because we have no idea the usage pattern. My guess is that same screen was left on days/weeks at a time, but who knows.
We'll see. So far with real-world use and reasonable precautions, no issue here, but it's still early.
 
I am curious about this. I would prefer a higher resolution 16:9 OLED, but there don't really seem to be any that are not huge and based off a TV.
 
I am curious about this. I would prefer a higher resolution 16:9 OLED, but there don't really seem to be any that are not huge and based off a TV.

They are planned, but will not be here until 2025 since planned production is Q4 2024.
 
Alright well I picked one up at Best Buy, I figure I can return it if there is a problem.

First thing I noticed, I ABSOLUTELY HATE the stand. Why do they do this stupid V thing that takes up 2/3 of your desk space with useless legs? Its the same size as my Dell S2721 which has a nice little rectangle and somehow is more stable and better built. This thing is wobbly as hell.

Image quality is good, I have it set to gamer 2, 85% bright, power saving off. Haven't bothered to install their software yet to see if there are firmware updates. The coating is really quite bad on white backgrounds with text, but not too noticeable otherwise.

I'm feeling like this probably isn't really worth the price compared to my FO48U.
 
(the black crush in particular would be a dealbreaker, but maybe it'll be eventually fixed via firmware).
Unlikely. This is apparently general trend in both monitors and TVs
Just watched Vincent's Samsung S90c review and sure enough it crushes dark details.

Not such a big issue for PC due to ability to change brightness but if that workaround works well depends on nature of black crush. Levels can be shifted like on LG 48GQ900 in which case shifting them with 'brightness' in GPU control panel works well but they can also just be flattened near black and this would cause brightness manipulation to result in non-black black and this I wouldn't ever want to get on any display let alone on OLED. It is hard to even tell because measurement data is too coarse and not available in usable form so the only way to be really sure is to get product, test it and eventually return it - which is a hassle I would rather avoid.

As usual choosing display is made extremely difficult by manufacturers not being able to implement simplest things correctly.

I really do not think firmware updates will fix anything. Lots of people would need to complain about this specific issue and nature of it makes it harder to recognize. Typically near-black issues like these result in thought display is not bright enough so people at most will complain about what seems like peak luminance...
 
Just watched Vincent's Samsung S90c review and sure enough it crushes dark details.

Yeah - Samsungs have had a tendency towards black crush for years. It's one of the reasons I went for a Sony when I bought a new TV a few years back (FALD in the TV's case). Samsungs tend to crush blacks more, whereas Sony's have more blooming in certain situations but tend not to crush things, which I personally prefer. It really seems to be a design philosophy difference. It seems some people perceive, for example, the Samsungs to have better contrast because things like the bloom around subtitles is lesser than, say, on Sony's, but you lose details in dark scenes for that same reason. Meanwhile Sony's will have more bloom, but also preserve those details. It's interesting even a few years later this still appears to be the case.

I never count on firmware updates to fix anything, but it'd certainly be nice and most likely possible if they really *wanted* to. It's odd the Asus went that route; I have to wonder if it was intentional, like in Samsung's case, or some sort of error since the LG doesn't share the problem.
 
Sony... Panasonic and maybe some other manufacturers compete with actual quality.
Panasonic from what I heard fixed near black chrominance overshoot on LG panels when LG itself cannot figure it... or probably just don't care enough to fix it.

but maybe it'll be eventually fixed via firmware
Asus didn't fix black crush with firmware. They released firmware to fix bad gamut in HDR and on this occasion made black crush in HDR even worse 🤯
 
Has anyone found a way to make the colors look good?

Specially when using HDR, It looks sobad side to side to a 27gl850b from 3 years ago, a lot of colors are just washed out or dull. Even a Dualup I have near it, have better vibrance and saturated colors and it's not a great panel at all.

Bought it for 750€ thinking it would be good at that price, and I could ignore some of the complains about it, and here I am, thinking on returning it.

Brightness is not a problem, I use all my displays at about 120 nits, motion clarity is amazing and could be a super selling point f you could maintain 240fps everywhere, but you won't even with a 4090 and glitch-lss 3 and there is no 120 hz bfi, even ignoring the text rendering problems, the colors are an issue, no matter what I try on the RGB levels, never look pretty like some oled tv's or great IPS's.

Also, the HDR, wtf LG, not letting the customer calibrate the RGB? Activating HDR have 2 modes, gamer 1 aka yellow mode, where whites are literally yellow, or gamer 2 aka blue mode where whites are blue

I get pc users have been after oled monitors for so much time, that now everyone get's excited by them, but this one at this price, don't know, doesn't seem like a good deal tbf, like this should be a 500€ display (even with the PC tax vs TVs), not much more, I wouldn't want to be one of the customers who paid 1200€ just 3 months ago. I mean, you can even purchase a S95B 55" for 950€, wth are they thinking charging about 1000€ (when not on sale) for this 27"

If this were a TV and not a display, and LG tried to charge 1000, it would sell literally 0.

oh yes, and the cherry on top, is that when connected through HDMI, if you use anything at full screen the monitor changes automatically to 4k 120hz and doesn't let the user change it manually, forcing him to use a DP cable without enough bandwidth for 1440p 240 12 bit, or edit resolutions with CRU to be able to use the HDMI 48gb input, but half of the times after editing with CRU at least with nvidia, the drivers suddenly loses the gsync compatibility with the display

what a disastrous release.
 
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I just don't use HDR don't use the stock stand too high and don't use adaptive sync makes my eyes hurt.
 
I picked up the Corsair version of this monitor (27QHD240) and had a chance to set it up last night. Coming from a 2016-era G-Sync TN gaming panel, it just looks so so much better! After picking up a 77A80J for my living room a few years ago it became unenjoyable to use my computer monitors for gaming due to the lack of contrast (I finally knew what I was missing). Now I feel like I actually want to use my computer again.

I don’t have much experience with HDR on PC and my limited testing didn’t show it looking better than SDR in the one game and few minutes I tried, but I hope to play with it more soon. I’m not expecting much as Corsair didn’t bother to get any HDR certifications for the monitor.

Overall the Corsair seems like a solid alternative to the LG if you want something with a longer warranty and express burn in protection.
 
Does the Corsair have a Vesa mount in the back how is the stand?
It does have a VESA mount (100mm x 100mm).

The stock stand is solid. Just two legs in a V pattern, but I didn’t notice any wobble. It rotates, swivels, adjust height, etc.

The appearance of the monitor is one of the main reasons I went with it (in addition to the warranty). It doesn’t have a gamer aesthetic at all, and there are no RGB lights on the back.

The LG has been on sale, though. You can get the LG plus a few years of store warranty (like GeekSquad) for the same price as the Corsair at the moment. If I wasn’t an hour and 45 minute drive from the nearest Best Buy I might have given the LG a shot, as I like how you can hardware calibrate SDR on that one.
 
Do you set a frame rate cap for games that is below the monitor refresh rate? Enable g-sync with full screen and windowed? And turn v-sync on in the control panel and off in the game?

I’m still needing to do more testing, but a frame rate cap lower than my screen’s max refresh rate that is also at a level where I don’t experience wide FPS swings was working great in Diablo IV last night.
 
Do you set a frame rate cap for games that is below the monitor refresh rate? Enable g-sync with full screen and windowed? And turn v-sync on in the control panel and off in the game?

I’m still needing to do more testing, but a frame rate cap lower than my screen’s max refresh rate that is also at a level where I don’t experience wide FPS swings was working great in Diablo IV last night.
My case was with a 60fps hard locked game with gsync enabled, first time I see the flickering
 
I picked up the Corsair version of this monitor (27QHD240) and had a chance to set it up last night. Coming from a 2016-era G-Sync TN gaming panel, it just looks so so much better! After picking up a 77A80J for my living room a few years ago it became unenjoyable to use my computer monitors for gaming due to the lack of contrast (I finally knew what I was missing). Now I feel like I actually want to use my computer again.

I don’t have much experience with HDR on PC and my limited testing didn’t show it looking better than SDR in the one game and few minutes I tried, but I hope to play with it more soon. I’m not expecting much as Corsair didn’t bother to get any HDR certifications for the monitor.

Overall the Corsair seems like a solid alternative to the LG if you want something with a longer warranty and express burn in protection.

Hmm, nicer stand, HDMI 2.1, 3 year warranty, 0 dead pixel guarantee, burn in protection (however that is defined by corsair), matte screen finish, claimed brightness 450 nit peak brightness, 800 nit @10%APL, 1,000 nit@3% APL. Waiting on reviews.
 
I wonder if the LG can't offer more brightness and colour accuracy on hdr as the other displays using this panel by design because of theirs was mishandled the engineering team like for example the lack of a better heatsink, they don't want to fuck with the customers of the panel and just offer a baseline monitor for them to look at, or they know the displays will burn and don't want to cover the warranty costs.
 
I'm gonna go with the latter. You'd think the maker of the panel is more in touch with its capabilities and since they are a large consumer electronics co they have a reputation to uphold. Where as if your asus you can make up excuses to f#$% people, limit production to keep prices elevated.
 
For great demo material for any OLED...

...try the newly released DLSS-compatible System Shock remake, and configure it to DLSS Balanced. It keeps 200fps+ even at 3440x1440, with excellent low blur performance.

1687152012383.png

(DLSS compatible remake is now out since June 1st, 2023!)

Set everything to maximum if you have a 3000 or 4000 series, but may need to bring "Fog Quality" and "Shadow Quality" 1-notch lower.

For System Shock to perform the best (and most CRT-like too):
  • Monitor Adaptive-Sync = ON
  • Monitor Profile = Game (I treat myself to 100% brightness for this specific game)
  • NVCP G-SYNC = ON
  • NVCP VSYNC = ON
  • NVCP Framerate Cap = 235 (or use RTSS)
  • Game Settings VSYNC = OFF (framepaces better with VRR)
  • Game Settings Motion Blur = OFF (unless you get headaches from stroboscopic stepping effects)
  • Game Settings everything Ultra (except Fog Quality / Shadow Quality, 1 notch lower for 3000 series GPUs)
  • Game Settings Difficulty = all set to "Normal" (level 2 of 3) except Cyberspace set to "Easy" (it's balanced the too-difficult side)
  • Game Settings Fullscreen = Exclusive (not borderless)
  • Game Settings DLSS = Balanced or Performance
  • Windows Settings HDR = OFF (System Shock alas, performs better in SDR mode, but simulates HDR very well in SDR mode)
  • Mouse Settings = 2000 Hz + 3200dpi + low ingame sensitivity (smoother CRT-like motion during smooth mouselook)
And now you do 3440x1440 at 200fps+ even on an RTX 3080, very low-jitter engine, it's pretty well optimized and the game is a perfect glove-fit for OLED. Now if you're 3060 and trying to push an ultrawide, you may have to back off the settings further, but it's lovely to go almost fully Ultra at 200fps+ while properly demoing OLED performance.

Also, the framepacing in system shock is delightfully smooth, so I don't see G-SYNC flickering inside System Shock.

Even mere mouse jitter can kill 120-vs-240 Hz differences, so try to use a 2000Hz pollrate or even 4000. Most new mouse sensors supporting 2000Hz pollrates, does a sublime job at 3200dpi in System Shock -- and high-DPI really makes a difference in jitter-reducing the slow mouse turns more common in solo games (unlike fast flick turns). The ability to mouselook around (while eyetracking the mouselook) and see motion blur reduction benefit of high-framerate high-Hz OLED, is a pretty neat experience. You can use mouse software to lower DPI when exiting to desktop. High-hz and high-dpi really dejitters the mouseturnfeel in certain games like System Shock when it comes to the fast GtG of OLEDs. 120-vs-240 is more visible with 2000Hz mouse poll rate (research paper confirmed).

Research paper confirms that 2000Hz+ is beneficial to dejittering (dl.acm.org/doi/10.1145/3472749.3474783)
1687153613287.png

This is important for blur-busting fans on OLED if you want to easily see 120-vs-240 during mouseturns/mouselook/etc, since any form of motion blur reduction (of either strobing method, or of the brute-framerate method on fast-GtG displays) can amplify visibility of jitter. So you don't want to skip optimizing your mouse jitter, when it comes to 240Hz OLED. The slow-mouselook dejitter technique to go is "high pollrate, high dpi, low in-game sensitivity".

As long as the game behaves -- and thank our lucky stars, System Shock remake does!. Now, I also use Process Lasso to tame my background software (e.g. cloud sync) and quit any CPU hogs, since 200fps+ on OLED looks better if you de-jitter it properly (all weak links, VRR, framepacing, mouse, background software, shader recompiles, texture streaming pauses, whatever jitters). A major refresh rate race weak link, most certainly, is jitter -- even at the 2ms timescales. Jitter needs to be a tiny fraction of a frametime to stay invisible, and at 200fps+, your frametimes are tiny, so tinier jitter is a bigger problem, so control your jitter to get your money's worth on 240Hz OLED.

Now, for older eyes, admittedly, 4x blur differentials (e.g. 60-vs-240, or 120-vs-480, or 240-vs-1000Hz of future OLEDs) is much more visible, but the 2x blur differential scales only linearly only with zeroed GtG and zeroed jitter. Any nonzero GtG and any nonzero jitter = less than 2x blur difference between 120-vs-240. Diminishing returns apply here, but it's about geometrics (after you control GtG and jitter). In a zero-GtG zero-jitter situation, 240-vs-1000 is more visible even to grandma than 120-vs-240, due to the geometric nature (like 1/240sec SLR photo versus 1/1000sec SLR photo), assuming sufficient spatial resolution to see the motion blur differentials. But you can only maximize Hz differentials if zero-GtG and zero-jitter. So, as you upgrade your Hz, you need to control your jitter more.

Otherwise, if you do not control your jitter properly, then 120-vs-240 is not night and day -- jitter of any form can pretty much ERASE the difference between 120-vs-240!!! So that's why I post the jitter-free System Shock settings above.

The perfect blacks of System Shock and its ultra-saturated colors, really show off OLEDs more than an order of magnitude better than an LCD, because of the extreme contrasts between perfect blacks and ultra-saturated colors. So any OLED chirstening ceremony, needs to include a contrasty game like cyberpunk-style material, to properly push your OLED capabilities, whether you have WOLED or QD-OLED -- both performs spectacularly with System Shock.

I played the 1994 version of System Shock way back in 1994, and it's really nice to play the now-completed faithful remake that really pushes the OLED framerate excellently, and makes an OLED shine in blacks, colors and motion performance. In many situations you've got literally several hundreds/thousands of islands of neon dots/pixels/lines/etc in the midst of darker-than-LCD-blacks -- which really shows off OLED per-pixel illumination control. You haven't tried 240Hz OLED properly unless you've properly tried 200fps+ cyberpunk material (neons+darks) with proper dejitter optimizations.

Save often though!
 
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