LG Ultragear 27" OLED 240hz 1440P 27GR95QE-B

For simplicity of expectations, the first BFI would be for 60Hz and 120Hz only.

Noooooooo I already have a 120Hz BFI OLED (LG CX) and was really hoping for that next leap to 240Hz BFI OLED. I'm sure the motion clarity will be a sight to behold! Hopefully my CX will last until that day arrives.
 
Noooooooo I already have a 120Hz BFI OLED (LG CX) and was really hoping for that next leap to 240Hz BFI OLED. I'm sure the motion clarity will be a sight to behold! Hopefully my CX will last until that day arrives.
Based on what I now know about large-size OLED panel backplane behavior, I suspect we're hurtling faster towards 1000Hz capability (~2027-2030ish) than for subrefresh rolling-scan BFI.
By the time 1000Hz OLEDs arrive, subrefresh BFI will no longer be critically important for large direct-view OLEDs.

The refresh-cycle-granularity restriction on BFI will still (by 1000Hz days) still be able to do 1ms MPRT on 60Hz material, by sheer 1/1000sec minimum of max-Hz refresh cycles.

If you want 1ms MPRT on OLED today, you will need to use small OLED and micro OLED displays, typically used in VR headsets such as PSVR2 and other units. They are more likely to be PWM-driven, and customized PWM (framerate=Hz) is used as the motion blur reduction methodology instead of discrete full-refresh-cycle black frame insertion. PWM (good and evil) requires few transistors per pixel, allows dimmer brightnesses and colors, and allows higher pixel densities in tiny OLEDs (near-1000 pixels per inch) which just happen to be convenient for VR-based motion blur reduction.
 
Monitor life hack: it should be possible to change temperature of white in other modes like FPS, RTS, Vivid, etc. by tweaking RGB values in service menu.
I did this for LG 48GQ900 and from what I saw on internet they use very similar service menu.
To enter it one can use LG service remote or any programmable IR transmitter. I used LG V20 smartphone with some app which allowed me to use 'pronto' codes and used codes from LG service remote found on internet.

Unfortunately no way to adjust anything for HDR
BTW. If anyone goes to service menu please avoid changing panel type. Apparently can break some monitors.
 
Just downloaded COD MW 2 for the first time for some reason while playing the campaign I was blinking like crazy. I tried a few settings nothing worked so I turned off Adaptive Sync within the monitor that was the problem. Not sure if that is the problem I had with other games but for some reason COD was bad with it on. When you have it off it disappears from the NV control panel as well but still uses 240hz as default.
 
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I received my monitor yesterday and does anyone want to share their current settings? I have tried the TFT Central videos settings and the monitor just still feels dull and colors feel off in SDR on Gamer 1 or Gamer 2 modes. I switched on HDR and Auto HDR on within Win 11 and it does feel brighter but the darks feel a little too dark for fps shooters. I tried messing with the HDR/SDR slider Win 11 offers but it made everything washed out. I did try the Vivid mode other videos mention and in SDR it seems to be brighter than the rest of the preset modes but again colors seemed off. At this point I don't know if it's something I just need to spend more time with to get used to the wider color gamut or if OLED might not just be for me. FYI I had a 32" 1440p 165hz LG VA panel that's almost six years old and my 2nd monitor is an LG 32" 1440p ips 60hz panel used for browsing/content. The new LG OLED is used for gaming only.
 
Check your Nvidia control panel sliders for Desktop and Windows 11 Desktop Gamma if it seems too dark I had both turned on.

This is my notepad for settings keep in mind I got a different stand for the monitor Vesa mount so it can go all the way down


LG MONITOR SETTINGS

50 B

60 C

50 Sharpness

50 Black Equalizer

Gamma Mode 3

Cool
Color Temp

Gamer 1 mode for better Black Levels not Grey

Don't enable Desktop Gamma in Windows 11 with built in slider otherwise screen will be too dark for games.


50 B

60 C

.81 gamma important to lower for better contrast

for Nvidia
 
If you experience any eyestrain you might have to turn off Adaptive Sync with the controller I just did that the other day and it helps a ton I know it's a adon feature but I don't think they fully tested it. My eyes feel less strained without it also turned off Gsync in Nvidia setting but I think if you disable Adaptive Sync it makes it vanish in Nvidia's Control Panel for Gsync I just disabled it all. Don't be afraid to adjust settings in the game with the controller or Ingame Gamma I do it all the time cause no two games are the same.
 
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TURN ADAPTIVE SYNC OFF EYES BLINK - Copy (2).jpg


I have it turned off due eyestrain I got from COD MW 2 using it I had it on for 3 weeks before I turned it off.
It's not really needed if you have a good PC to drive the monitor. Still runs at 240hz just without frame syncing.
 
That is true I just use my LG oled for Gaming not for Desktop use really it still works out. I lower the setings for tracking stuff on the screen instead of taking in lots of light.
It might take 2 weeks for you to get used to it it took me a good two weeks and the Vesa monitor stand I had to buy off Amazon to lower the screen 3 inches.
 
Gamma Mode 3

(...)

.81 gamma important to lower for better contrast
This would give you display gamma of around 3.0
According to tftcentral review brightness 50 is more like 30% maximum brightness and results in 60 nits

You must have pretty sensitive eyes if you consider this this usable 🤯

-----
I just noticed that on LG 48GQ900 I have DAS enabled in VIVID, sRGB and calibration modes whereas when I checked it before DAS was disabled in these modes and switching between mode with DAS and without it there would be noticeable latency difference (read: one frame of input lag with DAS being off)

Might be something to do with the used settings. I also have DAS at ON for all modes on LG 27GP950 and was surprised and disappointed it was not enabled everywhere on 48GQ900. Now it seems I can play with proper colors without needing to try to calibrate Gamer mode using six axis color controls like I planned to do for games where wide gamut wouldn't look right.

Can anyone with 27GR90QE confirm these monitors can also do DAS ON in sRGB/calibration modes?
 
I received my monitor yesterday and does anyone want to share their current settings? I have tried the TFT Central videos settings and the monitor just still feels dull and colors feel off in SDR on Gamer 1 or Gamer 2 modes. I switched on HDR and Auto HDR on within Win 11 and it does feel brighter but the darks feel a little too dark for fps shooters. I tried messing with the HDR/SDR slider Win 11 offers but it made everything washed out. I did try the Vivid mode other videos mention and in SDR it seems to be brighter than the rest of the preset modes but again colors seemed off. At this point I don't know if it's something I just need to spend more time with to get used to the wider color gamut or if OLED might not just be for me. FYI I had a 32" 1440p 165hz LG VA panel that's almost six years old and my 2nd monitor is an LG 32" 1440p ips 60hz panel used for browsing/content. The new LG OLED is used for gaming only.

This is going to depend on user to user as Comixbooks is running quite a bit different than me, so your mileage may vary and you may need to try things according to your preferences, but here's my take:

For SDR games (and desktop use if you do any of that at all), I'd very much recommend the sRGB mode with HDR off in Windows. Its calibration was pretty good out of the box for me (I did end up calibrating Calibration 1 with a colorimeter, but it's honestly quite close to that sRGB preset). Brightness can be set to your preference. On sRGB I would have probably stuck to 100% brightness. When I calibrated to 160 nits (my personal preference) on Calibration 1, Brightness ended up at 84.

For HDR (toggleable when you want to play an HDR game with WindowsKey+Alt+B if that key combo is enabled in the XBOX Game Bar App; then just set up HDR in the game's menus), I'd recommend sticking to Gamer 1. Personally I don't use Auto HDR and just play in HDR if it's a native HDR game (Dead Space, Forza Horizon 5, or Cyberpunk 2077 are examples), though some people like Auto HDR for non-native games. I haven't adjusted any of the colors, etc. personally in HDR. That said, on Windows 11, you definitely want to run the "Windows HDR Calibration" app and run through that - it will make HDR look a whole lot better IMO. It's not installed by default - you'll need to grab it from the app store (but it's free and easy to run through without any needed equipment and just helps Windows know the lower and upper limits of your monitor).
 
I just noticed that on LG 48GQ900 I have DAS enabled in VIVID, sRGB and calibration modes whereas when I checked it before DAS was disabled in these modes and switching between mode with DAS and without it there would be noticeable latency difference (read: one frame of input lag with DAS being off)

Might be something to do with the used settings. I also have DAS at ON for all modes on LG 27GP950 and was surprised and disappointed it was not enabled everywhere on 48GQ900. Now it seems I can play with proper colors without needing to try to calibrate Gamer mode using six axis color controls like I planned to do for games where wide gamut wouldn't look right.

Can anyone with 27GR90QE confirm these monitors can also do DAS ON in sRGB/calibration modes?

DAS does not appear to be available in any modes except the Gamer modes on this monitor, and there doesn't seem a setting to enable it. It's perplexing why so much is locked out in non-Gamer modes.

That said, I haven't personally noticed any appreciable lag/difference. I'm not a competitive player, but it seems just as responsive to me as long as it's set to 240 Hz and VRR is enabled (GSync is not).
 
DAS does not appear to be available in any modes except the Gamer modes on this monitor, and there doesn't seem a setting to enable it. It's perplexing why so much is locked out in non-Gamer modes.

That said, I haven't personally noticed any appreciable lag/difference. I'm not a competitive player, but it seems just as responsive to me as long as it's set to 240 Hz and VRR is enabled (GSync is not).
I noticed that if DAS is ON or OFF in sRGB or calibration mode depends on video mode on 48GQ900.
At 60, 96 and 120Hz its OFF and at overclocked 138Hz its ON

Whayt you can try is creating custom video mode with higher bandwidth because on my monitor it seems bandwidth is used to enable DAS in sRGB. When there is enough blanking lines to increase bandwidth to around or past what monitor uses in its factory overclock mode DAS is enabled.
1679819273815.png


So it might be worth checking on 27GR95QE i eg. creating video mode with smaller refresh rate but higher overall bandwidth helps. Might be also possible to increase refresh rate but probably monitor will throw out of range message. It should not throw such messages when refresh rate is smaller than 240Hz. Just beware that image might not apear if bandwidth is too high so best to always set video mode to default before restarting GPU otherwise you might have issues. Especially if that is the only monitor you have connected to your PC. Otherwise should be pretty safe to do.
 
I noticed that if DAS is ON or OFF in sRGB or calibration mode depends on video mode on 48GQ900.
At 60, 96 and 120Hz its OFF and at overclocked 138Hz its ON

Whayt you can try is creating custom video mode with higher bandwidth because on my monitor it seems bandwidth is used to enable DAS in sRGB. When there is enough blanking lines to increase bandwidth to around or past what monitor uses in its factory overclock mode DAS is enabled.
View attachment 559570

So it might be worth checking on 27GR95QE i eg. creating video mode with smaller refresh rate but higher overall bandwidth helps. Might be also possible to increase refresh rate but probably monitor will throw out of range message. It should not throw such messages when refresh rate is smaller than 240Hz. Just beware that image might not apear if bandwidth is too high so best to always set video mode to default before restarting GPU otherwise you might have issues. Especially if that is the only monitor you have connected to your PC. Otherwise should be pretty safe to do.

I've used CRU to remove the 4K TV presets that can sometimes display an error message (for some reason, some fullscreen games make the display think it's in 4K on some LG monitors, including this one, until you remove some TV-related upscaling from 4K entries), but this is a little beyond what I'm comfy messing with too since it is just the 1 monitor and I don't feel like I'm 100% sure what to try as far as settings to see if DAS triggers. I did try 90 Hz which it was able to do fine but DAS did not turn on.
 
How does one use CRU? I'm not seeing all the resolutions that are available to me in the NV control panel:

1679828315195.png
 
Figured out my problem. Have to go into "detailed resolutions" then "TV resolutions". Can delete from there. That also deleted the 3840x2160 PC resolution too.

Edit: This fixed my DLDSR resolutions being messed up too, nice!

1679830384769.png
 
I just switched back to the Stock LG Stand the one I bought off Amazon was ok but the Stock one is better =) I think the monitor warped the back a bit cause there is a little play on the back with the Stock stand. I just needed a 3rd party stand for training wheels to get used to the monitor I guess. What I reall y could use is a Office Chair that went a bit higher or my Desk could go a tad lower but I already took a hacksaw to my desk a few year back.
 
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So it might be worth checking on 27GR95QE i eg. creating video mode with smaller refresh rate but higher overall bandwidth helps. Might be also possible to increase refresh rate but probably monitor will throw out of range message. It should not throw such messages when refresh rate is smaller than 240Hz. Just beware that image might not apear if bandwidth is too high so best to always set video mode to default before restarting GPU otherwise you might have issues. Especially if that is the only monitor you have connected to your PC. Otherwise should be pretty safe to do.
That's interesting way -- to use QFT to enable DAS.

The bigger the VBI, the lower lag these OLEDs has, because it transmits the refresh cycle faster (higher horizontal refresh rate = more scanlines per second transmitted over video cable). Since many OLEDs fully buffer the refresh cycle (for ABL processing and similar) instead of rolling-window scanout sync between cable and panel -- large VBIs will generally reduce input lag on OLEDs. A large VBI maximizes the Quick Frame Transport latency-reducing effect. The OLED processing loop usually executes immediately upon receiving the last scanline off the video cable.

By making the blanking intervals bigger, the visible refresh cycle can be transmitted faster over the video cable (more time spent in vertical blanking interval (sync or porch), less time spent transmitting visible refresh cycles). A VBI of twice the vertical visible resolution, would have one-half the monitor-side framebuffering latency. This is useful if you're doing low-Hz modes on a 240Hz OLED (e.g. 60Hz fixed-Hz mode transmitting over video cable in 1/240sec).

For other readers -- unaware how those "Custom Resolution Utility" numbers maps out, it's visualized as a virtual resolution bigger than visible resolution;

VideoSignalStructure.png
 
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I just switched back to the Stock LG Stand the one I bought off Amazon was ok but the Stock one is better =) I think the monitor warped the back a bit cause there is a little play on the back with the Stock stand. I just needed a 3rd party stand for training wheels to get used to the monitor I guess. What I reall y could use is a Office Chair that went a bit higher or my Desk could go a tad lower but I already took a hacksaw to my desk a few year back.

The trend of stands with these long pointed legs that take up 9000% more desk space than necessary is something I literally can not wrap my brain around. It looks dumb, it feels dumb, its not very stable, and it takes too much room. Why the f do they do this? What was wrong with a solid rectangle that DOESNT go where you want to put your mouse and keyboard? The average desk is 24" deep, and you need 19 of that for these dumbass stands they manufacturers seem to think look very cool.
 
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I switched back to the Amazon stand I can't stand the stock stand I like it but it doesn't go down low enough. There is a Corsair version of this monitor coming out not sure if the stand is any better or if the Asus Stand is better.
 
I ended up returning mine. I could not find the right settings to suit me and it was driving me crazy. IMO if I spend 1k on a monitor it needs to be near perfect out of the box with minimal fiddling on my end. I did nothing but change settings on this thing non stop the entire time I had it, very frustrating. I will probably go the mini led route and look back into OLED in a couple more years down the road. I appreciate you guys sending me some setting to test!
 
I ended up returning mine. I could not find the right settings to suit me and it was driving me crazy. IMO if I spend 1k on a monitor it needs to be near perfect out of the box with minimal fiddling on my end. I did nothing but change settings on this thing non stop the entire time I had it, very frustrating. I will probably go the mini led route and look back into OLED in a couple more years down the road. I appreciate you guys sending me some setting to test!
Sorry to hear it didn't work out. I had gone through two monitors I wasn't happy with before finding this one, so I know how that feels, and it is frustrating! It's a very personal choice with a lot of factors to consider! At any rate, good luck with your search and I hope you find something you're happy with!
 
The cable for the firmware update is inside the LG accessories box mine was up to date. But I'll try the April firmware to see if it improves this Beta experiment.
 
Interesting! I see there's a new version of the OnScreen Control app, but it showed no firmware update quite yet. I just hope it doesn't mess up my calibration as I no longer have a colorimeter here to redo it =oP (Though I'll probably need to invest in one eventually anyways.)
 
Interesting! I see there's a new version of the OnScreen Control app, but it showed no firmware update quite yet. I just hope it doesn't mess up my calibration as I no longer have a colorimeter here to redo it =oP (Though I'll probably need to invest in one eventually anyways.)
I wondered about it too - why new versions when nothing changes and no firmware updates?
My conclusion is they just add new monitor models and update references on their website for all supported monitors.
FW updates should not need new OnScreen Control app I guess.
If memory serves me right I didn't update it when I updated LG 27GP950. Just one time I read somewhere they added 144Hz mode for HDMI and updated it with version I already had installed.
 
The latest firmware is now available - just did the update.

You need the latest OnScreen Control - mine updated again when I started it, and then it prompted for the firmware update.

This is NOT a quick firmware update. Allow for at least 2 hours. You can keep using the PC during it, though. I had thought mine got stuck around 50% through - it just takes forever to advance percentages once it gets to that point, though. =oP

Haven't noticed any big differences so far.
 
Reports indicate LG changed bunch of random settings to random values which itself make no sense.
In other words nothing really improved.

Until they give users the control in how they want their monitor configured nothing will ever change.
For now they even block settings which are relevant and affect modes where these settings are blocked indicating idiots write these firmwares and no one tests quality. Hence ridiculous issues which could be easily fixed persist for years.

Unfortunately other monitor manufacturers have similar low development cost zero testing strategy and similarly ridiculous issues.
In other words same old same old in monitor industry 👎
 
I updated the firmware on my 45GR95QE. Nothing really stands out in terms of changes. I haven't used a colorimeter, so I don't know what if anything changed, but I see nothing obvious, and there isn't some clear difference in brightness. sRGB SDR looks the same as before to me. Not sure if HDR is a bit brighter than before or not - it may be, but even if it is, the difference isn't major.
 
I have a question to LG monitor owners: do sharpness change when you enable HDR and use/change color profiles generated by windows HDR app?
 
You notice any changes I don't think I'll update with the firmware reddit said their remote won't work and it can't detect the PC port so I think I'll keep what I have. I did see someone with a tV showing it does get brighter but that was with a TV panel.
 
The latest firmware is now available - just did the update.

You need the latest OnScreen Control - mine updated again when I started it, and then it prompted for the firmware update.

This is NOT a quick firmware update. Allow for at least 2 hours. You can keep using the PC during it, though. I had thought mine got stuck around 50% through - it just takes forever to advance percentages once it gets to that point, though. =oP

Haven't noticed any big differences so far.
What is the version for the latest firmware I have 3.02 1.13
 
Alright I didn't know you had to redownload the onscreen App to get the Firrmware update. Your right Sgupta took about 2 hours it stops at 50% then ticks slowly for two hours. I'm going to say it does make the screen brighter it also fixed the flickering I had in Hogwarts Legacy using Adaptive Sync while Gsync was enabled still going to keep it off though. I loaded up The Last Epoch I do think it's brighter now but not in overall brightness I went to the darkest area of the game I turned up Black Stabalizer and before when I turned it up past 60% the whole screen would wash out. With the Firmware update I can turn it up to 90% before it starts to wash out the screen it's subtle but there is a difference with running at a lower brightness and turning up Black Stabilizer. The Dark Area in The Last Epoch really looked alot brighter without being washed out.

I didn't have any problems switching ports from Displayport to HDMI for the PS5 someone said they had that problem but the ports are still working.

Update: Just fired up Ghost of Tsushima on PS5 seems like the game is brighter also Black Stabilizer doesn't wash out the game when you turn it up to 95%
I had the darndest time trying to figure out why it was so dark the settings in game you can adjust are minimal you can only do so much like turn up the Brightness only and the performance level like Quality, Balanced or Performance it's a older game but still looks great.
 
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still going to keep it off though
Why?
For both input-lag and motion clarity its better to stabilize frame-rate by limiting it and keeping it lower than where it usually is for given game and still use VRR than disable it.
You won't get flickering if your frame rate is stable because flickering only happens when frame times between frames are different.

Of course if framerate dips below set limits there will still be flickering but when it happens occasionally its non-issue. Its is an issue when it flickers all the damn time as it does normally when you enable VRR and not limit frame rate.
 
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