Crossover + Parametric EQ

A

AVT

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I know that naively using two 12db crossovers won't produce a 24db crossover, because they interact with one another.

Does the same thing happen with parametric EQ? Should I avoid using EQ near crossover points? Thanks
 
uh two 12dB crossovers can produce a 24dB crossover (though they should be set to the same frequency)... two 2nd order Butterworth crossovers (12dB) stacked is a Linkwitz-Riley 24dB crossover. Using EQ near a crossover is fine, the problem with stuff in the crossover region is phase. What are you trying to do?
 
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As the first rule of thumb: you should avoid doing any modifications to your speakers if you don't have the ability to measure the results reliably. Going by the ear is going to send you to a wild goose chase because each record sounds vastly different and you end up adjusting to their flaws.
 
|Tch0rT| said:
uh two 12dB crossovers can produce a 24dB crossover (though they should be set to the same frequency)... two 2nd order Butterworth crossovers (12dB) stacked is a Linkwitz-Riley 24dB crossover. Using EQ near a crossover is fine, the problem with stuff in the crossover region is phase. What are you trying to do?
Click to expand...

Car stereo EQ. Have had a bunch of difficulties with crossover that EQ would help with. There is a large peak around 80hz that I want to get rid of.

B00nie said:
As the first rule of thumb: you should avoid doing any modifications to your speakers if you don't have the ability to measure the results reliably. Going by the ear is going to send you to a wild goose chase because each record sounds vastly different and you end up adjusting to their flaws.
Click to expand...

I have a calibrated Dayton Audio mic, so this is a non-issue. Trying to make the bass in my new car sound at least something close to flat.
 
I don't know kind of processing power you have on hand but I'd PEQ it down.
 
AVT said:
Car stereo EQ. Have had a bunch of difficulties with crossover that EQ would help with. There is a large peak around 80hz that I want to get rid of.



I have a calibrated Dayton Audio mic, so this is a non-issue. Trying to make the bass in my new car sound at least something close to flat.
Click to expand...
Check out miniDSP then. That peak is probably the resonant frequency of your car cabin - below the peak your bass drivers start to modulate the air inside the car linearly which means you get near perfect bass response even with small drivers.

The transition from waveform radiation to direct modulation happens at the resonance and there will always be a peak. Most people handle this peak by crossing over their subs octave below the peak and then crossing over the midbass slightly above the peak. That way you end up with pretty much flat response even without EQ.
 
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