Searching for lowest black level -- F2380, VW2420, or ?

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Which display has the lowest black level? My environment is always dark with no lights on, so any backlight bleed is very noticeable to me. I'm guessing my options are pretty much limited to the Samsung F2380 or the Benq VW/EW2420. Unfortunately there is no 2333T or F2380MX/M where i live, so I'm stuck choosing between these two (unless there is a 27" TN that has a really low black level, which i would strongly consider as an alternative)

From the two reviews at pcmonitors.org, it looks like the black level of the F2380 at 10% brightness (<0.01 / 40cdm2) is much lower black level than the Benq EW2420 (0.03 / 97cdm2). However, the flatpanelshd review measured better numbers on their Benq test sample--but they didn't test the Samsung as well, so maybe that's not a fair comparison. Anyway, at this point, I think I'm so concerned about the black level that I might be able to accept slower response and black crush limitations of the F2380 if its blacks are lower in luminance.

Currently have a Dell G2410 LED backlit display and even with the brightness at 0 the backlight is still way too bright and the contrast in movies is terrible. I measured it at 0.10cdm2 and ~50cdm2 with the contrast at 80% and the brightness at 0%. 50 is plenty bright for me and I can make due with even lower, as long as the resulting contrast is at least 1000:1. It looks like these *VA panels are going to be 3000:1 or more with their brightness at 0%, which is great for lights-out movie watching and gaming.

Any input is appreciated!
 
Not an answer to your specific question, but that is the reason I am looking into a Panasonic plasma with the infinity black display. I believe its the G25.
 
Which display has the lowest !


The Samsung 233t/F2380xx, new BenQ Va screens and the Eizo Foriss FS2311/EV2333 all use a C-PVA panel and can do 0.04cdm/2 black @120cdm/2luminance.

Here I have calibrated both the Samsung F2380MX and BenQ EW2420 to 120cdm/2 luminance for an identical black value of 0.04cdm/2.

TFT Central also gets 0.04cdm/2 and their unit had a much better panel in terms of uniformity and backlight bleed. Most of PC monitors mesurements are no where near reality.

Both the Samusng and BenQ have motion issues granted they are half the price of the Eizo Foris FS2311 which was just released.

Read PRAD's EV2333 Review. They have also reviewed the Foris fS2311 but it's for their subscription service only. It has better motion performance and also lower input lag at the cost of worse lower res scaling (which is worthless to most people) and slightly worse viewing angles, which are still good.

The Foris is your monitor if you truly want deep blacks and good gaming performance.
 
Wow, thanks for the response! I'll see if the Eizo is available.

NCX, When you measured the F2380MX and Benq EW2420 at 120cdm/2 and 0.04cdm/2, what were the monitors' respective brightness settings? From the other reviews, it seems like the Benq will only go as low as 0.04 or 0.03 when set to 0% brightness, but the F2380 allows you to turn the backlight down even further (at the expense of max luminance, which I don't mind)

Liver, I hear ya. Plasmas are big and heavy and hard-to-carry, but really are ideal for lights-out viewing. Are there still burn-in issues with the latest generation of Panasonic plasma tech? If they've solved that issue, maybe that's an alternative for me. I wish the local-dimming TVs came in smaller sizes. The new LG LEX8 with 2000 dimming zones looks pretty much ideal, but probably won't be available in anything smaller than 47 inches...
 
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From the other reviews, it seems like the Benq will only go as low as 0.04 or 0.03 when set to 0% brightness, but the F2380 allows you to turn the backlight down even further (at the expense of max luminance, which I don't mind)
Did you read the TFTCentral review? They got a black level of 0.04cd/m2 with a luminance of 120cd/m2. The actual monitor brightness was set to 64 and contrast to 50 to achieve this. Even at 100% brightness, the EW2420 still only has a black level of 0.05cd/m2.

Are there still burn-in issues with the latest Pannys? If they've solved that issue, maybe that's an alternative for me.
The latest Panasonics have an anti-burn in feature, I don't know how well this works though.
 
BenQ: Brightness 26 contrast 85
Samsung: Brightness 30-40 (not using 120 on it right now cant remember) Contrast 95

My settings can be seen in my Youtube Video Review at the 8:18 mark.

Brightness goes down to 0.02cdm/2, according to TFT Centrals BenQ Reivew.

When talking about 0% brightness and getting 0.03cdm/2 you're refering to PCMonitors.orgs reivew. Most of their measurements are no where near reality, and they don't follow any sort of calibration standard.

Minimum black luminance on the F2380 is around 0.00cdm/2 @16cdm/2 luminance. I need to use HCFR for the exact value, but it is less than 0.01cdm/2.
 
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Did you read the TFTCentral review? They got a black level of 0.04cd/m2 with a luminance of 120cd/m2. The actual monitor brightness was set to 64 and contrast to 50 to achieve this. Even at 100% brightness, the EW2420 still only has a black level of 0.05cd/m2.


The latest Panasonics have an anti-burn in feature, I don't know how well this works though.

Personally I wouldn't use a plasma for a monitor. There is a reason you don't see many people doing this. Sure they have features to make them much more resistant to burn in, but that doesn't mean it is not possible. On a computer the start bar may be displayed for hours and hours a day and honestly I don't see a plasma standing up to that kind of torture. I haven't tested it personally, but it is not a risk I would take myself.
 
Personally I wouldn't use a plasma for a monitor. There is a reason you don't see many people doing this. Sure they have features to make them much more resistant to burn in, but that doesn't mean it is not possible. On a computer the start bar may be displayed for hours and hours a day and honestly I don't see a plasma standing up to that kind of torture. I haven't tested it personally, but it is not a risk I would take myself.

Computer screens also present heavy challenges to plasmas. So a big part of the anti-burnin is moving the pixels around a bit. It shifts the image on screen by a couple pixels all the time. You don't notice it, but it helps deal with static things like network logos and score boards and so on.

However computer desktops have much larger areas of much purer solid colours. Look at [H] for example. Lots of big blocks of solid colour. A bit of pixel shifting won't help there much.

As you say, there's a reason you don't see them offered in computer monitors. They are pretty good at resisting burn in these days, they'll work well for TV and movies. However you really don't want to be using one as a computer monitor. If they worked well for that, they'd be sold for that.
 
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Thanks for setting me straight about the PCMonitors.org review. The BenQ numbers at TFTcentral are very promising. I am really torn between these two monitors now!

F2380 pros: Deeper blacks; better looks; thinner bezel & rotation better for eyefinity upgrade.
F2380 cons: Crushed shadow detail (fixable?), slightly slower response than Benq
VW2420 pros: More shadow detail; better acceleration; slightly bigger; semi-gloss screen (i'm partial to glossy)
VW2420 cons: Worse uncalibrated colors; cant turn brightness down as far; possible uniformity & QC issues

Quick question about the crushed blacks on the F2380: Are the shadow details completely missing even when viewed in the dark in a light-controlled room? I notice that with these panels, the contrast numbers seem to go up higher with lower black point settings, so maybe the extra contrast will help make the details somewhat visible? Comparing the same image at the store with the lights on, i could just barely make out the dark details; I think they were there, but just really dim. If this is really that big of a problem, i guess i should take my chances with the QA issues on the Benq (no returns where i'm buying)

NCX thanks for taking the time to do all this testing and comparison work. I'm sure many a lurker has made a much more informed purchase because of your efforts--including myself.

Siryak thats about what I expected about plasmas. Bring on the full array local-dimming PC monitors!!! (or OLED, whichever comes first)
 
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No need for PLASMA to get a Deep Black level.

Right now the best priced TV/PC Monitor combo is the Local Dimming Toshiba 46SV670U. Not only does it have 16ms of input lag which is pretty much as low as it gets for TV's but it's also one of the best TV's ever made.
ClearScan/dp/B001TOD3K0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1290329860&sr=8-3[/url]

Wow I didn't even know Toshiba had local-dimming sets. I've been eyeballing LG's 2nd-generation local dimming LE8500 / Vizio XVT3 series for a while now, but then I saw the LEX8 review and decided that it will probably be worth the wait.
 
Wow I didn't even know Toshiba had local-dimming sets. I've been eyeballing LG's 2nd-generation local dimming LE8500 / Vizio XVT3 series for a while now, but then I saw the LEX8 review and decided that it will probably be worth the wait.

Just keep in mind those Toshiba sets suffer from some bad haloing around local dimmed pixels. Some people aren't really bothered by it but if you use this as a PC display it will be much easier to notice it , an example of "haloing" around a pixel :



The left side of the pixel shows how its properly done but the right is the issue the Toshiba is affected by. The good news firmware updates are slowly fixing the issue but Toshiba can decide it doesn't wish to continue using resources to fix the code and stop to focus on newer generation panels coming soon since 2011 is right around the corner and CES is only a few weeks away.

The Vizio XVT3 series sets have pretty lousy input latency so you should probably avoid them (however strictly being used as a regular display they are excellent values).

Still the Toshiba is otherwise an excellent display though just keep that in mind.


As for Panasonic's anti-burn status , my panel still managed to get some burn in after careful usage and being extra careful during the plasma's baby stage (first 200 hours of usage are when plasmas are the most sensitive to burn in) so its not fixed or gone by any means however most are happy and burn in free.

I would strongly advise against using a plasma as a PC monitor its just too easy to forget and leave a bright strong static image on the screen and then your screwed. LCD's will always be the best choice for this reason alone.
 
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Toshiba patched the problem with a firmware update last year.

The haloing is only noticeable in a pitch dark room anyways, minor bias lighting makes the effect un-noticeable except to the trained eye, if the TV is set to about 120cdm/2. The effect isn't even annoying as these sets produce a much deeper black level then most TV's.
 
Toshiba patched the problem with a firmware update last year.

The haloing is only noticeable in a pitch dark room anyways, minor bias lighting makes the effect un-noticeable except to the trained eye, if the TV is set to about 120cdm/2. The effect isn't even annoying as these sets produce a much deeper black level then most TV's.

Its patched but not fully fixed. There is still some haloing at times but also consider that if you use at as a PC display you'll be closer to it then you would be if you used it strictly as a TV. At night I use my PC in a room with a light coming from behind the monitor and people do use PCs at night in near total darkness.

Its something a buyer should know before dumping over a grand into it thats not to say it isn't worth it but knowing up front is better than finding out after shipping it , opening it and being disappointed.
 
Read PRAD's EV2333 Review. They have also reviewed the Foris fS2311 but it's for their subscription service only. It has better motion performance and also lower input lag at the cost of worse lower res scaling (which is worthless to most people) and slightly worse viewing angles, which are still good.
The FS2331 review should be generally available.

Best regards

Denis
 
Is the FS2331 the same as FS2311 with the latter being a typo? If so, how does "suitable for occasional gamer = satisfactory" and "suitable for hardcore gamer = bad" translate into good gaming performance?
 
Is the FS2331 the same as FS2311 with the latter being a typo? If so, how does "suitable for occasional gamer = satisfactory" and "suitable for hardcore gamer = bad" translate into good gaming performance?

It means that players of actual video games, like Mass Effect or The Witcher, should be satisfied with the responsiveness. Hardcore gamers for the most part refers to people who will end up returning the monitor because they notice it isn't as fast as their cheap TN and therefore surmise that their KD ratio will suffer. No one knows what the Hardcore Gamer is willing to turn his nose at nowadays.
 
It means that players of actual video games, like Mass Effect or The Witcher, should be satisfied with the responsiveness. Hardcore gamers for the most part refers to people who will end up returning the monitor because they notice it isn't as fast as their cheap TN and therefore surmise that their KD ratio will suffer. No one knows what the Hardcore Gamer is willing to turn his nose at nowadays.
Yeah, I know, sorry I should have been more specific. I was referring to what NCX was saying about the FS2331 being the same monitor as the EV2333 but with better motion performance. Yet in the Prad review that he linked to the EV2333 scores better in the "suitable for occasional gamer" category. They even say in the conclusion that their biggest criticism of the FS2331 is its responsiveness. Just curious how does that make it a good gaming monitor.
 
The Foris is your monitor if you truly want deep blacks and good gaming performance.

Well I took my wad o' cash to the monitor store again today, and this time I draped my jacket over the top of the VW2420, dropped the brightness to 0 and examined the black level under my "hood" (and probably looked like an idiot doing it, but how else am I going to compare to my home viewing environment?)

Good thing I did, too! I was really wowed by the nice blacks the glossy screen and good contrast the Benq displayed with the store lights on, but with the lights off its a different story. Suffice it to say, I'm passing on the Benq. There was an EW2420 there too and I put it through the "cloak test" as well, just to make sure it wasn't just a bad unit.

The good news is that the store said they are getting the FS2331 in next week, and I put my name on the waiting list!

Now I just have to decide if the FS2331 is worth $600 vs the $270 of the F2380(non MX). I don't really care about the super mega color accuracy of the Eizo, so I will be paying for the even deeper black level, the better shadow detail, and the improved speed. Is the F2380 really as bad as everyone says? It seems like it will satisfy my black level requirements almost as well as this Eizo at less than half the price (I could buy two!)

Update-- just read the Prad.de review of the FS2331 and it doesn't seem like it has the amazing 0.006 black level and 7000:1 contrast they measured on the EV2333.
 
I just got 3x F2380s from pc connection express for $190 each. So far I Love all 3 of them. Colors look great. Panel uniformity looks great. There's hardly any (if any) backlight bleed. I sent back my U2311s for these and saved $250.

I have a couple minor complaints about them:
-power led flashes on standby
-some noticeable ghosting with certain color combos (seems to have diminished significantly since I set the overdrive setting to fastest). I could only see it when scrolling in a spreadsheet that contained white, black and gray cells all in a row. The black cells would ghost onto the gray ones a lot when overdrive was on fast instead of fastest.
 
I just got 3x F2380s from pc connection express for $190 each. So far I Love all 3 of them. Colors look great. Panel uniformity looks great. There's hardly any (if any) backlight bleed. I sent back my U2311s for these and saved $250.

I have a couple minor complaints about them:
-power led flashes on standby
-some noticeable ghosting with certain color combos (seems to have diminished significantly since I set the overdrive setting to fastest). I could only see it when scrolling in a spreadsheet that contained white, black and gray cells all in a row. The black cells would ghost onto the gray ones a lot when overdrive was on fast instead of fastest.

Apparently setting the overdrive to fastest add artifacts, I will let NCX answer that as he is the one who said that.

I have the F2380MX... I play mainly only games on it and I have to say the blur is some of the worst I have seen on an lcd in many years. I am using the settings NCX posted in the F2380 thread. I would say if you sensitive to blurring then the F2380mx is not the monitor you want to go with. The contrast ration on the other hand is very good.

I also had the regular F2380 monitor and removed the AG coating on it the same way others have removed the AG coating on the Dell U2711. Unfortunately for me when I did this I must have taken off the polarizer too because the entire screen looks completely white when turned on. And if I take the coating and put it over the screen I gains back all of the color. If one could remove the coating on the F2380mx it would look even better IMO. Is there a correct way to remove the coating without removing the polarizer or whatever it is that makes the lcd have color?
 
Apparently setting the overdrive to fastest add artifacts, I will let NCX answer that as he is the one who said that.

I have the F2380MX... I play mainly only games on it and I have to say the blur is some of the worst I have seen on an lcd in many years. I am using the settings NCX posted in the F2380 thread. I would say if you sensitive to blurring then the F2380mx is not the monitor you want to go with. The contrast ration on the other hand is very good.

I also had the regular F2380 monitor and removed the AG coating on it the same way others have removed the AG coating on the Dell U2711. Unfortunately for me when I did this I must have taken off the polarizer too because the entire screen looks completely white when turned on. And if I take the coating and put it over the screen I gains back all of the color. If one could remove the coating on the F2380mx it would look even better IMO. Is there a correct way to remove the coating without removing the polarizer or whatever it is that makes the lcd have color?

That's very interesting about the AG coating... I can't even see it on my F2380s. I could see it on my U2311s and I hated it.. it was like 1000s of tiny water droplets on the screen.

You're right about the blur though, it's the worst I've seen in a while too. I only use these for programming and some video, so the effect doesn't bother me or even show up much.
 
Yeah, I know, sorry I should have been more specific. I was referring to what NCX was saying about the FS2331 being the same monitor as the EV2333 but with better motion performance. Yet in the Prad review that he linked to the EV2333 scores better in the "suitable for occasional gamer" category. They even say in the conclusion that their biggest criticism of the FS2331 is its responsiveness. Just curious how does that make it a good gaming monitor.

Both panels were reviewed by different people. There are quite a few other sites which disagree with their conclusion as do I after reading their review sense the Foris is indeed the faster panel.

The Foris does have better motion performance and less input lag, so it doesn't make sense for them to score it the way they did, but again different reviewers.

It is a good gaming monitor because it offers 3x the contrast ratio of most other panels. C-PVA breaths new life into pretty much all content due to how fantastic it looks.

Well I took my wad o' cash to the monitor store again today, and this time I draped my jacket over the top of the VW2420, dropped the brightness to 0 and examined the black level under my "hood" (and probably looked like an idiot doing it, but how else am I going to compare to my home viewing environment?)

Good thing I did, too! I was really wowed by the nice blacks the glossy screen and good contrast the Benq displayed with the store lights on, but with the lights off its a different story. Suffice it to say, I'm passing on the Benq. There was an EW2420 there too and I put it through the "cloak test" as well, just to make sure it wasn't just a bad unit.

The good news is that the store said they are getting the FS2331 in next week, and I put my name on the waiting list!

Now I just have to decide if the FS2331 is worth $600 vs the $270 of the F2380(non MX). I don't really care about the super mega color accuracy of the Eizo, so I will be paying for the even deeper black level, the better shadow detail, and the improved speed. Is the F2380 really as bad as everyone says? It seems like it will satisfy my black level requirements almost as well as this Eizo at less than half the price (I could buy two!)

Update-- just read the Prad.de review of the FS2331 and it doesn't seem like it has the amazing 0.006 black level and 7000:1 contrast they measured on the EV2333.

The F2380 is really a 60/40 case in terms of responsiveness. The PixerPixAn performance is fine and there is almost no Corona effect, it's the color streaking that digs it's grave. The streaking only shows up with certain slow color transitions though, so you may watch one movie which is perfect but the next may have quite a few scenes filled with color streaking. Unfortunately skin tones seems to streak alot (the most common actually, but again it depends on exact tone of the skin).

The EV2333 is not 7,000:1, that was a mistake on their part, unless they have some sort of godly unit. It is 3,000:1 just like the F2380MX

Refer to this review and translate
http://extrahardware.cnews.cz/cpva-samsung-f2380m-vs-s-pva-eizo-e-ips-dell?page=0,3

The Foris is definately worth the money over the F2380. You won't have to fiddle with any external programs to fix the black crush or deal with the streaking. I doubt most people would even notice the streaking on the Foris unless they're CRT effecinados or come from one of the faster TN panels.
 
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I honestly think both the Samsung F2380 and the BenQ VW2420 are worth considering. If you want want better flexibility with adjustments you can always consider the BenQ BL2400PT as well. It's similar to the Samsung F2380 and the BenQ VW2420. It uses the P-VA panel used in the VW2420 and also provides 3000:1 contrast ratio to produce extremely deep blacks. The main difference between the BenQ P-VA units and the Samsung is the fact that the BenQ's are lit with LED's instead of CCFL. There are pros and cons to both.

I personally have the VW2420 as well, I think it's a great monitor. I use it mainly for work and movies at the moment as I do not have time to play much games. Sadly, I don't use it much for movies at the moment as my Job has gotten extremely demanding. The VW2420 is extremely thin compared to the EW2420 or the BL2400PT, but mainly attributed to the fact that it's batter adapter is external compared to how most are built into the monitor. If you are considering wall mounting the monitors, the VW2420 will not be for you because it's not wall mount friendly, while the BL and EW are. I'm not sure about the Samsung.

What exactly are you going to use these monitors for btw?
 
The EV2333 is not 7,000:1, that was a mistake on their part, unless they have some sort of godly unit. It is 3,000:1 just like the F2380MX

The Foris is definately worth the money over the F2380. You won't have to fiddle with any external programs to fix the black crush or deal with the streaking. .

Well on the F2380 it looks as if the lower you make the brightness, the higher the contrast seems to get, so the 7000:1 "maximum contrast" they mentioned (not in the calibration section, btw) was probably with the minimum luminance of 42cdm2 with the brightness at 0%. That would be 0.006. You said you measured under 0.00 on the F2380 at minimum brightness too, so the 7000:1 number they got on the EV2333 seems plausible.

In comparison, they measured a black level of 0.02 of the FS2331with the brightness at 0%, which seems worse than what the F2380 is capable of. You mentioned earlier that all monitors using this panel (and the benq's AUO MVA panel) are all capable of 0.04 at a standard luminance of 120cdm2, but I will not be using it at that brightness. 40 or 50cdm2 is more like it, for me. That's why the black level is so important in my situation. I will put up with a little streaking of certain colors if it gets me inky blacks in my dark room.

What exactly are you going to use these monitors for btw?

Thanks for the input. I like the skinny profile and weight of the VW, if no other reason than it is portable and easy to move into different positions, such as when I move it to the edge of my desk to have it closer while watching blurays. I actually prefer the utilitarian aesthetics of the F2380 though. I'm a sucker for skinny bezels, I guess. I use my computer in the dark 95% of the time, so basically I every monitor i use is at or close to 0% brightness.. I'd say 50% movies / 40% general/internet use / 10%games (really trying to get that "games" number up though; I've got quite a backlog of titles I'd like to play)
 
PRAD measured 7,000:1 (0.02cdm/2 black level) @140cdm/2.

At such a low luminance (50cdm/2) I think you will be hard pressed to tell the difference between black levels, obviously the lower the better at that level but still.

As an owner of the F2380MX I would still strongly recommend going for the Eizo, or even the BenQ models over the the original F2380 (get the BenQ from NClX for their exhcange program).
 
PRAD measured 7,000:1 (0.02cdm/2 black level) @140cdm/2.

Ah, okay great. So basically the EV2333 has better blacks at any given luminance than any of the others.

At such a low luminance (50cdm/2) I think you will be hard pressed to tell the difference between black levels, obviously the lower the better at that level but still.
Actually the opposite is true. In a dark room at lower luminance levels, your eyeballs adjust and the black level becomes very noticeable. Obviously when you have a bunch of bright content on the screen you don't notice as much, but during dark passages in movies, it is very obvious.

As an owner of the F2380MX I would still strongly recommend going for the Eizo, or even the BenQ models over the the original F2380 (get the BenQ from NClX for their exhcange program).
Thanks for your advice. I really wish the newer samsungs were available in my area, because they seem to fit my needs perfectly. US$550~600 for the Eizo seems like quite a bit of money to drop on a 23" monitor. It's too bad the U2711 doesn't have good black levels at low brightness, or I would be all over that!
 
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Ah, okay great. So basically the EV2333 has better blacks at any given luminance than any of the others.
Unlikely. As mentioned in the FS2331 review the accuracy of measurement is a problem in such low areas (btw: the more you deviate from native whitepoint, for example during calibration, the more the contrast will decrease; exception would be a display with RGB-LED backlight). But regarding the profile validation (page 10 middle) of the EV2333 review the problem was potentially too that the EyeOne Pro was used for this measurement which has even stronger restrictions in very low light measurements.

Is the FS2331 the same as FS2311 with the latter being a typo? If so, how does "suitable for occasional gamer = satisfactory" and "suitable for hardcore gamer = bad" translate into good gaming performance?
The should behave quite similarly. I have only reviewed the FS2331 so I can't comment on the rating of the EV2333 but evaluation of responsiveness (especially when trying to express it through a grade) can't exclude a subjective component. In contrast to the older EV2333 review we now carry out real oscilloscope measurements to strongly decrease such subjective differences (while a complete elimination is not possible; as we can see in the FS2331 review some color transitions are problematic while measurements primarily account for ISO 13406-2 and ISO 9241-305).

Best regards

Denis
 
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Thanks for your input.

Just to comment on the FS2331's response time.

Sense the input lag is only 2ms, and there is no corona effect, shouldn't that (IMO of course)entitle the Foris to a ++ rating in the "Suitable for Ocaisional gamer," section? Streaking is really something only experienced users coming from a much faster LCD or CRT user will notice.

The F2380xx line has significantly less AG coating then your standard TN and there have been reports from EV2333 owners on here who also say its lighter then their current Matte screens.

Is the Foris the same as the rest of the C-PVA panels in terms of AG agressiveness?
 
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Both panels were reviewed by different people. There are quite a few other sites which disagree with their conclusion as do I after reading their review sense the Foris is indeed the faster panel.

The Foris does have better motion performance and less input lag, so it doesn't make sense for them to score it the way they did, but again different reviewers.

It is a good gaming monitor because it offers 3x the contrast ratio of most other panels. C-PVA breaths new life into pretty much all content due to how fantastic it looks.
Fair enough, it makes sense that ratings will vary somewhat between different reviewers as Sailor_Moon explained. Still, going by what they say in conclusion of the review, it can't be much faster than the EV2333. Contrast shouldn't come into the gaming performance rating IMO because it has its own separate section.

Sense the input lag is only 2ms, and there is no corona effect, shouldn't that (IMO of course)entitle the Foris to a ++ rating in the "Suitable for hardcore gamer," section? Streaking is really something only experienced users coming from a much faster LCD or CRT user will notice.

In other words, hardcore gamers ;) I can't imagine a VA panel being given the maximum rating for motion performance. At least I'm yet to see one that performs that well motion wise.
 
I meant Ocaisional gamer, copy pasted the wrong section woops.
 
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